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ATHENS
GUIDE
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The
Unification of Archaeological Sites - probably one of the
most ambitious plans of urban transformation ever
conceived - is now well under way in Athens, the densely
populated historic capital of Greece. The plan ...has
been set up to undertake the creation of a large open
museum, a project of crucial importance for the capital is
aesthetic appearance and cultural role, a project which
shall unify the rich heritage of the past and the city's
everyday life.
It is a
particularly ambitious and long-term project, the first
phase of which shall nevertheless be completed before the
landmark year 2004, the final aim being the possibility
of an uninterrupted walk in space and historic time from
the city's birth to the present day . So says Yiannis
Kalantidis, the president-CEO of the Unification
of Archaeological Sites of Athens SA, a company created
by the Ministry of Environment, Regional Planning and
Public Works, and the Ministry of Culture, and partly
financed by the European Community.
Although
ideas for a vast archaeological park were proposed by visionary
designers more than forty years ago, it was around the mid-1970s that
most people realized that the modern city had been built hastily from the 1950s to almost the present
time - over the remains of ancient Athens. The need to
create homes and businesses for a fast growing population
was then much more important than the preservation and
showcasing of the city s glorious history. The Acropolis,
Thission and the other important
archaeological sites were suffocating, as very busy
streets, on which endless lines of private cars and buses
passed by, often in bumper-to-bumper traffic, surrounded
them. Traffic jams are the norm and in an
attempt to reduce the traffic, and the pollution created
through this traffic, the government has instigated a
law stating that you may use your car only on alternate
days. Parking is a nightmare. Some walking through the
center of the city is necessary in order to see some
monuments and sights. The sights shown below are all with
in walking distance. |
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THE GREEK PARLIAMENT. The
plain, neoclassical building which is the
Parliament of the Greeks today, was built between
1834-1838 as the palace of the first kings. In
front is the monument of the Unknown
Soldier, with the two guards, called
"Evzoni". who are the
presidential guards (changing of the guards every two hours).
Every Sunday there is
a parade and a band playing the National Anthem
at 10:45 a.m.
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SYNTAGMA SQUARE. Here beats the heart of the modern city.
The Parliament at the east of the square reminds
us the deviation of its name. In 1843, the
Greeks, received their first constitution from
King Otho, after numerous and
persistent demonstrations.
- NATIONAL GARDEN. The green lung in the center
of the city. Beautiful and rare flowers, trees and bushes as well as
little ponds decorate the garden, which is open all day long.
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PANEPISTIMIOU STREET
(EL. VENIZELOU). El. Venizelou street,
which is known as Panepistimiou street, is one of
the central roads of Athens. Beautiful
neoclassical buildings decorate it: "Iliou
Melathron", meaning the palace of
Troy. This was the house of Erik Schlieman.
"The Academy", the
highest spiritual institution of the country.
"The
University",
"the
National Library"
with thousands of manuscripts and books, "the
Bank of Greece" etc. These buildings are typical copies of
ancient Greek architecture and will help you to imagine how Athens
looked 2500 years ago.
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PLAKA.
Come to the heart of the city, to the neighborhood of the
Olympic Gods, come to Plaka. 5' walk from Syndagma. At
the foot of the Acropolis, there spreads out, the most alive part of
the city, an open exhibition of the history of the Athens and a
panorama of people, monuments and tastes too. Narrow small roads, numerous
taverns, restaurants, coffee shops, small
picturesque squares and beautiful interesting
corners. Walk through it- get to know it - feel
it. Being in Plaka, you cannot but come upon some monument,
witness of the past. You cannot but have at every corner an
opportunity to do your shopping, to buy something for the ones you
love and care about. Plaka is a place of contrasts. It can be vivid
and tranquiller, it can be crowdie and quiet, noisy and calm. It all
depends on the place you pick up to enjoy a cold glass of beer or
ice coffee. After dark Plaka comes alive. The taverns with their
cavernous rooms decorated with barrels and their trellis covered
terraces are illuminated with multicolored lights: savoring the
Greek cuisine with glasses of retsina, listening to the
bouzouki music and the latest singers and dancing the
modern sirtaki.
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MONASTIRAKI.
This was the centre of the Turkish town with the bazaar and the
shops as well as the main mosques and administrative buildings. Now
it is popular commercial district incorporating the Athens flea
market. Start from Syntagma
Square. Go west down Odos Ermou, a busy shopping street lined with
boutiques selling feminine apparel, dress materials and ready - to -
wear clothes, furs and shoes, leather goods and jewelers. Some columns
from the Adrian's library are in site, a mosque
which has been turned into a library and a
beautiful small church (Kapnikarea built on 11 C) are some of the
interesting monuments of this place.
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ATHINAS STREET. A central road of Athens
connecting Omonia square with Monastiraki. Its
here that one can feel the oriental character of
the city. The main market of the city, the little
shops, with their peculiar merchandises make this
busy, noisy street very attractive.
Athens an open Museum
The
restoration of Plaka, and then Thission,
Psyrri and the other old neighborhoods
in the centre of Athens started in the early 1990s. A
vast network of pedestrian streets, together with
financial incentives given to the owners of properties to
renovate their homes completely changed the face of these
areas. They have now become favorite spots for a quiet
stroll during the day or at night. Athenians and tourists
alike gather at the multitude of nice, tiny restaurants
in Psyrri, or climb up to the northern side of the
Acropolis, through the picturesque streets of Plaka,
lined with beautifully restored private homes. The so-called
historic triangle of Athens, the old commercial part of
the city, has also improved dramatically. Ermou, the
principal commercial street, as well as many other
narrower side streets have been freed from traffic and
turned over to pedestrians, giving new life to this
lovely part of downtown Athens, which for years had
declined progressively.
The
Unification of Archaeological sites plan, which also
incorporates these restored neighborhoods, consists of
the creation of a long network of pedestrian ways and
open spaces. These stretch from Ardettos hill,
the marble Stadium and the temple of Olympian
Zeus, all the way to Kerameikos,
through Dionysiou Areopagitou
and Apostolou Pavlou streets, on the
southern side of the Acropolis, crossing
the Thission. The plan also includes the
area past Kerameikos, reaching as far as Gazi - the
former large gasworks plant, which is now a very lively
cultural center. We needed to take in to account the
needs of locals and visitors alike as we carefully
knitted together the urban areas with the archaeological
and the natural sites , explains Maria Kaltsa,
an architect and Yale graduate, who is part of the team
working on the project. Dionysiou Areopagitou and its
continuation, Apostolou Pavlou Street, running along the
southern and southwestern sides of the Acropolis, is the
backbone of the plan.
Athens Metro
During the
large-scale excavations carried out with state-of- the-art
instruments for the long awaited Athens Metro ( Web Site:
http://www.ametro.gr/
),
more incredibly interesting ancient monuments and
artifacts have surfaced. The Metro, although only partly
finished, has greatly improved the life of Athenian
commuters. But besides providing stress-free
transportation, it has also created several underground
museums at most of the new stations. At Syntagma,
for example, one can admire the stunning cross-section of
the ground, illustrating the various eras that once
flourished in Athens. There are also cases of ancient
objects found during the work on the station. Many people
also are drawn particularly to the turn-of-the-century
photographs of Syntagma square, which speak louder than
words about the changes the capital of Greece has
undergone in its most recent past. At the newer Acropolis
station, visitors can admire a different permanent
exhibit: copies of the Parthenon s eastern frieze,
wonderfully depicting goddess Athinas creation, together
with many other of the most important Parthenon
sculptures that enrich the British Museum of London. The
station pays homage to the late Melina Mercouri,
the well-known actress who - as Minister of Culture - had
made it her life s goal to get these so-called Elgin
Marbles back to Athens. Melina is shown sitting
in front of the Parthenon in a large photograph, while
another most impressive picture on display at the station
shows hundreds of ancient vases being unearthed as the
huge crane moved the earth while digging for the station.
It is not
only the works of the various ancient creators and
craftsmen that adorn the various stations of the Athens
Metro. The compositions of modern, well-known Greek
artists may also be admired. Yannis Moralis work can be
seen at Panepistimiou station,
Zongolopoulos flying umbrellas hang at an atrium on the
Syntagma stop, Chryssa s creation is at Evangelismos,
while at Dafni, Dimitris Mytaras bas-reliefs
inspired by the 4th century BC depiction of the fighter
Dexileos cover an area 3 x 11 meters and dominate the
station. These are just an example of the many important
artworks that can be admired at the Metro stops, which
have created small underground art museums in various
parts of the city, forcing even commuters who would never
consider going to an art gallery or museum to get a
glimpse of what they have been missing. On the other
hand, these new well designed stations make Athenians
appreciate their city again, restoring the pride which
was almost lost after all they had to endure on their way
to work.
Athens
Airport
But the
transformation of the city and the great new face of
Athens wouldn't be complete if travelers had to be
squeezed into the small old airport of Hellinikon.
The modern large
Eleftherios Venizelos
airport
website
www.aia.gr
,
at Spata, is comfortable and well designed, equipped with
the latest technology available. The new
Athens airport has a vast shopping mall, ready
to serve travelers and local residents in
this well populated area.
Spata,
situated on the eastern side of Attica,
together with the upgraded port of
Lavrion
will
enable visitors to get to the islands by boats much
faster, as the distance from Lavrion, at the tip of the
Attica peninsula, is considerably shorter than the trip
from Piraeus. The vast roads and highways that lead to
the airport will also help commuters who want to get to Mesogia, the
lively area around Spata. It will also facilitate traffic to the varied
and wonderful eastern coast of Attica, with its wonderful, clean
beaches, which has remained less
known to the visitors of Athens...

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